Dalam beberapa tahun terakhir, trend print 3D terus mengalami perkembangan. Tren ini diikuti juga dengan pembuatan berbagai jenis mesin mulai dari yang kecil hingga yang besar. Selain itu perkembangan bahan untuk print 3D atau filamen juga sangat besar sehingga pemilik printer 3D harus memahaminya. Filamen yang menjadi bahan untuk membentuk model 3D ternyata jenisnya ada banyak. Tidak hanya satu jenis saja, bahkan lebih dari lima! Saat ini jenis filamen 3D printing memang didominasi oleh jenis plastik dan turunannya. Setiap bahan memiliki kelebihan dan kekurangannya sendiri-sendiri. Untuk bisa memilih jenis filamen 3D printing yang tepat, simak beberapa jenisnya di bawah ini. Baca juga Panduan Cerdas Memilih Jenis Filament 3D Printing 1. ABS Acetonitrile Butadiene Styrene Acetonitrile Butadiene Styrene atau ABS adalah salah satu bahan yang banyak digunakan untuk filamen mesin printer 3D. Pemilihan jenis filamen 3D printing ini bukan tanpa alasan, pertama karena stabil dengan suhu dan paparan kimia. Selanjutnya sangat kuat dan mudah dirapikan dengan penguapan aseton. Kekurangan dari bahan ABS ini adalah tidak bisa diuraikan secara alami karena merupakan plastik sintetis. Selanjutnya saat printing dilakukan akan ada asap berbahaya yang digunakan. ABS butuh suhu tinggi sehingga daya yang dipakai juga besar. Baca juga Filament Polycarbonate Filamen 3D Printing Super Tangguh 2. PLA Polylactic acid Bahan polylactic acid atau PLA termasuk yang mulai naik daun dan digunakan oleh banyak pelaku dan penggiat 3D print. Alasan penggunaan PLA adalah bahan bakunya yang alami sehingga akan terurai kalau dibuang ke tanah. Secara harga produk ini cenderung murah dan membutuhkan daya rendah untuk pencairan. Karena tidak membutuhkan suhu tinggi, bantalan untuk mesin tidak diperlukan lagi. Kemungkinan membakar benda di sekitarnya juga rendah. Kekurangan dari bahan PLA hanyalah mudah meleleh, apalagi di suhu yang sangat tinggi. Hindari terkena sinar matahari agar bentuk model tidak berantakan. 3. HIPS High Impact Polystyrene HIPS juga cukup bisa diandalkan karena memiliki beberapa kelebihan seperti kekuatan bahan yang sangat tinggi. Selain itu bahan HIPS ini juga fleksibel meski sangat kuat dibandingkan jenis lainnya. Jenis filamen 3D printing ini juga merupakan alternatif dari ABS yang memiliki kekurangan pada asap berbahaya yang dikeluarkan. Suhu yang digunakan untuk melakukan pencetakan atau printing cukup tinggi dan butuh bantalan di bawahnya. Serat yang digunakan sebagai filamen juga rawan patah dan juga ruwet kalau tidak ditata dengan baik. Terakhir, kalau mendapatkan suhu tinggi, model 3D yang dihasilkan akan mudah lembek. 4. Nylon Bahan nylon juga sangat diandalkan untuk membuat model 3D. Alasan penggunaan bahan nylon tidak lain dan tidak bukan adalah masalah kekuatan. Selama ini nylon banyak digunakan untuk tekstil karena kekuatannya yang sempurna. Kalau diaplikasikan pada model 3D, kemungkinan cepat leleh akan rendah. Selain itu stabilitas pada suhu panas juga cukup stabil dan mudah diwarnai sesuai dengan kebutuhan. Barangkali kekurangan dari bahan nylon adalah butuh suhu tinggi untuk melelehkannya sebelum diaplikasikan menjadi bentuk tertentu. Selain itu nylon juga mudah bengkok dan rawan ruwet sehingga proses cetak jadi terhambat. 5. PVA Polyvinyl Alcohol Jenis filamen 3D printing yang terbuat dari bahan PVA merupakan bahan organik dan bisa diuraikan dengan mudah. Kalau ada sisa atau residu bisa dibuang ke tanah tanpa memicu pencemaran seperti plastik. Meski bahannya organik, model 3D yang dihasilkan tahan dengan berbagai pelarut dan juga minyak. Bahan PVA juga mudah sekali larut dalam air sehingga tidak merugikan atau meracuni penggunanya. Kalau Anda ingin menggunakan bahan PVA ada baiknya menjauhkan bahan ini dari panah yang berlebihan dan kelembaban tinggi. Selain itu pertimbangkan masalah biaya meningkat produk ini cukup mahal. 6. PETG Glycol-modified Polyethylene Terephthalate Menggunakan bahan PETG akan memberikan cukup banyak kelebihan. Beberapa kelebihan itu adalah kekuatannya yang sangat tinggi dan stabil dengan suhu tinggi. Jenis filamen 3D printing ini juga tahan dengan paparan bahan kimia tertentu. Singkatnya model 3D yang dihasilkan dari produk ni akan awet digunakan. Sayangnya bahan PETG ini tidak user friendly alias susah digunakan. Jangan gunakan bahan ini kalau beberapa produk sebelumnya masih ada. Selanjutnya kalau berada di bawah sinar ultraviolet, produk yang dihasilkan akan mudah rusak meski tahan pada suhu yang tinggi. 7. TPU Thermoplastic Polyurethane Bahan TPU memiliki fleksibilitas seperti karet sehingga tidak mudah patah. Jenis Filamen 3D printing dengan bahan ini juga cocok untuk membuat lapisan-lapisan tertentu pada model 3D yang sedang dihasilkan. Produk juga tahan dengan minyak. TPU mudah sekali menggumpal meski masih dalam bentuk filamen. Karena mudah menggumpal, kemungkinan terjadi masalah pengoperasian akan besar. Terakhir bahan TPU ini sulit sekali dipoles kalau tidak sempurna karena secara tekstur seperti karet. 8. ASA Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate Jenis Filamen 3D printing dengan bahan ASA sama halnya dengan ABS yang terbuat dari plastik. Bahan ini memiliki kelebihan berupa resistensi dengan suhu tinggi, sinar ultraviolet, hingga paparan zat kimia. Proses penguapan aseton juga bisa digunakan untuk proses finishing agar permukaan tidak kasar. Hal yang disayangkan dari bahan ASA ini adalah kekuatannya yang rendah, butuh printer dengan suhu tinggi, dan mudah menggumpal. Selain itu, bahan isian print 3D ini juga mahal. Inilah beberapa jenis filamen yang digunakan sebagai bahan utama isian dari 3D printing. Dari penjelasan di atas terlihat dengan sangat jelas kalau masing-masing jenis memiliki kelebihan dan kekurangannya sendiri-sendiri. Pilih jenis filamen terbaik seperti jenis PLA. Semoga ulasan di atas bermanfaat.
CaraMerakit Printer 3D Sendiri Muhammad Syafri Di 09:26:00 Mikrokontroler, Robot, Robotic, Tutorial, IMKONTROL.COM- Printing 3D semakin populer sekarang untuk membuat benda-benda yang dapat digunakan langsung, ini adalah kebalikan dari mesin tradisional di mana manusia tidak lagi melakukan pengeboran, pemotongan, memahat, dll untuk membuat objek.
Cara Mencetak Benda Dengan Mesin 3D Print Creality Mencetak menggunakan mesin 3D print. Dunia teknik sekarang ini mengalami kemajuan yang begitu cepat. Inovasi dan penemuan mesin-mesin baru begitu banyak. Namun banyak dari mesin-mesin tersebut masih mempunyai keterbatasan dalam hasil akhir benda terlebih dengan bentuk benda yang rumit. Terkadang kita sebagai engineer ketika mendesain dan merancang sering terbentur dengan cara dan mesin apa yang bisa kita gunakan untuk membuat benda tersebut. Namun sekarang ada satu mesin yang bisa membuat benda apapun tanpa kita harus memikirkan keterbatasan alat ketika membuatnya. Mesin tersebut adalah 3D printer. Mesin yang Bisa Membuat Benda dengan Mudah 3D Printer merupakan mesin aditif manufacturing yang memerlukan bahan lain sebagai bahan dasarnya. Biasanya bahan untuk 3D printer filament terbuat dari plastik dan logam. Bahan ini biasanya sudah berbentuk roll gulungan panjang dan tinggal pasang di mesin 3D printer nya. Mesin ini mampu untuk membuat benda tiga dimensi dari desain digital yang kita gambar di komputer. Dalam proses pemesinan aditif, mesin membuat benda dengan cara membuat lapisan secara sedikit demi sedikit hingga objek terbentuk sesuai dengan desain. Jadi benda hasil 3d Print berupa lapisan-lapisan tipis yang tersusun hingga membuat bentuk 3 dimensi sesuai desain yang kita inginkan. filament 3D Printer Saya akan mencoba membuat benda menggunakan mesin 3D print merk Creality. Berikut langkah-langkahnya, Check it out.. Langkah-langkah membuat benda dengan Mesin 3D printer Creality Persiapkan desain yang akan kita buat. Untuk desain kita bisa menggambarnya menggunakan software-software desain 3D seperti Solidworks, Inventor, 3D Max, dll. Kemudian simpan file akhirnya berupa .STL Selanjutnya setting file .STL di software 3D printer yang kita gunakan. Masukkan file ke program 3D print Atur posisi pencetakan benda sesuai posisi yang kita inginkan Kemudian atur kualitas, jenis, ketebalan, temperature, densitas, kecepatan pencetakan, hingga support benda Selanjtnya simpan hasil toolpath G-Code benda ke dalam Micro SD untuk selanjutnya di proses cetak. Setting an untuk 3D print Creality 3. Masukkan Micro SD Card ke mesin 3D printer 4. Plilh menu Print 5. Kemudian pilih nama file yang akan kita cetak, kemudian pilih Print 6. Mesin mulai mencetak 7. Setelah selesai ambil benda yang sudah jadi. Selesai Untuk beberapa mesin 3D printer lain, biasanya memiliki settingan yang sedikit berbeda namun secara garis besar memiliki banyak kesamaan satu dengan yang lainnya. Sekian artikelku mengenai mudahnya membuat benda apapun menggunakan mesin 3D Printer. Ikuti terus artikel-artikelku selanjutnya.. follow and subscribe my social media Read all article about ➜ Engineering teknologiuntuk membuat objek 3D. 3D printer sering disebut sebagai teknologi terbaru yang akan mampu mengubah dunia. Salah satu teknologi 3D printing yang sering ditemukan dipasaran saat ini adalah jenis teknologi FDM. Prinsip kerja FDM – Seorang teknisi printer dengan pengalaman 10 tahun akan memandu Anda dalam pembuatan filamen 3D printer. Dengan panduan lengkap ini, Anda akan mempelajari teknologi terbaru dan membuat filamen 3D printer di rumah Anda sendiri. Apa itu filamen 3D printer? Filamen adalah bahan dasar yang digunakan dalam pembuatan objek 3D dengan printer 3D. Filamen 3D printer terbuat dari berbagai macam plastik seperti ABS, PLA, PETG, dan banyak lagi. Dengan membuat filamen 3D printer sendiri, Anda dapat menghemat biaya dan menyesuaikan bahan dengan kebutuhan Anda. Topik 1 Bahan-bahan yang Diperlukan Sumber bing Pertama-tama, Anda memerlukan bahan-bahan untuk membuat filamen 3D printer. Beberapa bahan yang Anda butuhkan termasuk granul plastik, mesin ekstruder, termometer, dan sarung tangan. Granul plastik adalah bahan dasar untuk membuat filamen 3D printer. Anda dapat memilih berbagai macam plastik sesuai dengan kebutuhan Anda. Mesin ekstruder digunakan untuk melakukan ekstrusi granul plastik menjadi filamen 3D printer. Termometer digunakan untuk memantau suhu saat membuat filamen, sedangkan sarung tangan digunakan untuk melindungi tangan Anda dari bahan kimia. Setelah Anda memiliki semua bahan, Anda dapat mulai membuat filamen 3D printer dengan mengikuti langkah-langkah yang tepat dan mengikuti petunjuk penggunaan dari mesin ekstruder yang Anda gunakan. Topik 2 Proses Pembuatan Filamen 3D Printer Sumber bing Proses pembuatan filamen 3D printer terdiri dari beberapa tahap. Tahap pertama adalah mempersiapkan granul plastik dan mesin ekstruder. Pastikan granul plastik Anda bersih dan kering sebelum dimasukkan ke dalam mesin ekstruder. Tahap kedua adalah memulai mesin ekstruder dan mengatur suhu sesuai dengan jenis plastik yang Anda gunakan. Setelah suhu telah mencapai titik tertentu, granul plastik akan mulai meleleh dan keluar dari mesin ekstruder sebagai filamen 3D printer. Tahap terakhir adalah memotong filamen 3D printer menjadi ukuran yang diinginkan dan memasukkannya ke dalam gulungan. Anda sekarang memiliki filamen 3D printer yang dapat digunakan untuk membuat objek 3D dengan printer 3D Anda. Topik 3 Keuntungan Membuat Filamen 3D Printer Sendiri Sumber bing Membuat filamen 3D printer sendiri memiliki beberapa keuntungan. Pertama, Anda dapat menghemat biaya karena membeli filamen 3D printer siap pakai cenderung lebih mahal. Kedua, Anda dapat menyesuaikan bahan dengan kebutuhan Anda. Anda dapat memilih jenis plastik yang tepat untuk aplikasi tertentu dan mencampur berbagai macam plastik untuk menciptakan karakteristik yang unik. Ketiga, dengan membuat filamen 3D printer sendiri, Anda dapat mengurangi limbah dan mendaur ulang bahan. Anda dapat menggunakan bahan daur ulang atau bahan bekas untuk membuat filamen 3D printer baru, sehingga membantu mengurangi jumlah sampah plastik yang terbuang. Terakhir, dengan membuat filamen 3D printer sendiri, Anda dapat mengeksplorasi kreativitas dan mengembangkan kemampuan dalam teknologi 3D printing. Anda dapat menciptakan objek unik dan lebih memahami cara kerja printer 3D secara menyeluruh. Topik 4 Tips dan Trik Membuat Filamen 3D Printer Membuat filamen 3D printer membutuhkan kesabaran dan ketelitian. Berikut adalah beberapa tips dan trik yang dapat membantu Anda dalam membuat filamen 3D printer Pilih plastik yang berkualitas untuk menghasilkan filamen 3D printer yang bagus Mesin ekstruder harus diatur dengan benar untuk memastikan suhu dan kecepatan keluarnya filamen Pastikan granul plastik bersih dan kering sebelum dimasukkan ke dalam mesin ekstruder Gunakan sarung tangan dan alat pelindung lainnya saat membuat filamen 3D printer Simpan filamen 3D printer dalam tempat yang kering untuk mencegah kelembaban Dengan mengikuti tips dan trik ini, Anda dapat membuat filamen 3D printer yang berkualitas dan memiliki karakteristik yang unik. Demikianlah panduan lengkap untuk membuat filamen 3D printer. Dengan mempelajari teknologi terbaru dan mengikuti langkah-langkah yang benar, Anda dapat membuat filamen 3D printer sendiri di rumah Anda dan mengeksplorasi kreativitas dalam teknologi 3D printing.Nahcara kerja dari 3D printer ini adalah pertama-tama kita memasukan model yang ingin kita buat ke software dari 3D printernya. Setelah dimasukan 3D printer akan memanaskan filamennya, dan setelah panas 3D printer akan langsung membuat modelnya. Lama pembuatan modelnya tergantung tingkat kesulitan dari model yang akan dibuat.
Table of Contents Start by Building Base Plate Adjust the Kickback Protection Making the Barrel and the Auger Bit Coupling of Auger Motor Building the Nozzle Installing the K-Type Thermocouple Set the Cooling Feature Make 3D Printer Filament by Setting the Extrusion and the PID The Conclusion 3D printers are an investment that you make once apart from the regular maintenance that you need once in a while. However, the materials that we use to print the parts and the object is a continuous investment. Every time the material ends, we need to order more, or else, we won’t be able to 3D print. Did you know that you can make 3D printer filament at home at a cheaper rate? If so, then what materials can be 3D printed? This may ring a bell for many as most of the 3D printing services feel overwhelmed by the expensive price of these filaments when the need for 3D printing is too often. I won’t say that it is the easiest thing to do. However, those who want to do it yourself would find the guide helpful in many ways. There are machines that let you make filaments at home. But these again are costly. So how about building these machines at home at a much cheaper cost? This is a great idea for those who like to go the extra mile for saving some bucks. By following certain steps, you can come up with your own 3D printer filament extruder. Start by Building Base Plate Once you have decided to make 3D printer filament, the first thing you would require is a base plate. To make the base plate, you will require two 15cm wooden boards. These would be used as a mount for the barrel as well as the motor. How to Mount the Motor? To mount the wiper motor, place it at the end of the base plate. Using the steel angle, connect the mount to the base plate. Later, use the hex nut to fit the coupling on the motor and put it back in the shaft. However, the nut can come out while the coupling rotates during its operation. To stop that from happening, you can put a 2 mm steel bolt into a drilled hole between the motor shaft and the hex nut. How to Make the Barrel Mount? This is also easy. You require some drilling to fix things up. To attach the flanges, you would require to make two holes to the right and left of the board. One more hole must be drilled to fit the auger bit. Make sure that the center of both these mount boards is aligned correctly. This will help in smooth rotation of the shaft axis. Once done, we move further to fasten the flanges by using a 10 mm threaded rod. You would require two of them. We have taken a long rod to ensure that the fixing to the auger kickback protection is taken care of properly. Adjust the Kickback Protection We need kickback protection to fight the pressure build from the auger bit rotation. If it is not countered, the worm drive could damage. The question is How did the auger work? When the auger turns, it is pushed back as it has the tendency to turn backward. This further causes the auger’s shaft to push against the axial ball thrust bearing. This further pushes itself against the steel angle. One must remember that there is always little clearance allowed for the coupling between the auger and the motor. This is to ensure that there is no force felt at the motors shaft. To do so, simply place the steel angle which has the inserted rods in it, at a distance from the barrel mount. By doing so, the auger’s shaft will stick out for about 4 cm. Making the Barrel and the Auger Bit The making of barrel and auger bit is very crucial and one must take extra caution to ensure that they are done perfectly. How to Make Barrel? The pipe used for making a barrel must be smoothed out from the ends to ensure that the movement of auger bit is easy. Fasten the pipe to the flanges and note the upper area. Make sure to loosen the pipe before cutting the marked area. This is where the pellets will fall in. So, using the multi-tool, cut the marked area. Use some PTFE tape at the end of the pipe. The motor is very powerful. Hence, ensuring that the pipe does not move with the auger movement is very important. Now, pick a square wood. Make a hole length-ways. Make another hole that would be orthogonal to the pipe channel. The first hole is for the pipe to run through it and the second one is to make sure that the bottle fits perfectly and tightly. Later cut the block into halves. How to Make Auger Bit? The auger bit is usually longer than the needed length. You can use an angle grinder to take off the tips. Ensure that the height of the auger bit is exactly enough to reach the heater. Coupling of Auger Motor Find two square steel around 2 inches each. These must fit at the rear of the socket. The coupling must be placed on the auger bit before attaching the motor to the mount. If the coupling fits perfectly in the middle, you are good to go to the next step. Building the Nozzle The nozzle is built with the help of the breaker plate and by determining the diameter of the nozzle hole. Because it is not certain that a definite diameter will go well with every material, you may have to test the size of the hole for different ones. You may be able to define the hole of the nozzle after certain trial and error results. Usually, if you are working with ABS or PC, a mm hole will do the job. To build a breaker plate, use a faucet-mounted filter. As per your requirement, cut it into half. The breaker plate filters the dirt and bubbles that may cause degradation of filament. This keeps the surface smooth of the plastic and pushes it through the nozzle for continuous flow. Do not put it directly. However, place the washer inside the end of the cap and adjust the breaker plate over it. Installing the K-Type Thermocouple The thermocouple will go in the water tap extender. To do so, make a hole of about 2mm close to the front of the water tap extender. Use the exact length of the thermocouple wire needed. Make sure that the band heater is seated around the extender’s end. Using PTFE tape secure the thread around the tap extender. Ensure that the tap extender is fixed using heat resistant tape. Later secure the nozzle. Get hold of aluminum tubing around 10cm long with a 1cm diameter. With the help of rigid wire, place it in front of the nozzle. In the end, cover the insulation lying around the heater to make sure that the nozzle is safe. Set the Cooling Feature When the 3D printing filament extruder works, the nozzle and the motor stay hot. While the filament is exiting the nozzle, it is still hot and can stretch more than the requirement because of the gravitational force that is pulling it to the ground. Hence, cooling at this stage is very crucial. Cooling done at this stage will help in maintaining the diameter of the filament. The fan attached to the machine will also cool down the motor, keeping it working for long. Now, fix three rocket switches to a piece of wood that will go in the front closing. Also, attach the PID controller and the potentiometer for controlling a motor. You can use hot glue to fix these things to the wood piece. How to Install Main Power? This is where rocket switch comes into play. The power cord is connected using the rocket switch. How to Connect the PID Temperature Controller? Again, use the rocket switch to the PID temperature controller to the power switch. How to Connect Band Heater and SSR? Make the connection of the 12V ports of SSR to the port 6 and port 8 of PID. Join the port 1 listed on the SSR to the 220V EU /120V US port L of the power supply. Now, ensure that the port 2 of the SSR is connected to any one of the band heater’s ports. The remaining ones must be connected to the port N of the power supply. How to Connect Motor Controller? First, use a rocker switch to connect the motor controller to the power switch. Once that is done, make the connection of the motor to the motor controller. For this, pinout the motor to the speed setting. You must know which pin setting is for speed as it differs from model to model. Make 3D Printer Filament by Setting the Extrusion and the PID The material is the basic factor to determine what temperature the extruder must be set to. However, to set up the PID controller, you must follow the steps below Long press SET for at least 3 seconds. This will enable the autotune function. After you see “HIAL” displayed on the screen, use the down button till you find “Ctrl” on the screen. Adjust the settings to “2”. The autotune will be set to 2. Once again start to press “SET” until you get to the temperature setting again. You can use the up and down keys to set the temperature as desired. Wait for about 10-12 minutes till you find the flashing stop. This is when you must start the motor for filament extruding. This is how you make 3d printer filament at home. Benefits of Making 3D Printer Filament at Home Now that you know the steps to start making filaments at home, you must be thinking why to take all the load. The hard work is worth the benefits you get in return. If you are printing more often, you must know what it means to be able to make 3D printer filament all by yourself. For those, who are not aware, here are few benefits that you may like to look at. ✔️ Save Money Making filament at home saves money. You can make a huge difference in the terms of the amount you spend every month on making your parts with the 3D printer. Also, the money you save can be used to make more filament, hence more 3D printing. ✔️ Make Money by Selling Filament There are so many companies that are looking for filaments that are cheap yet high quality. You can make that happen. You can sell the filament to others and make profits doing so. Once you have mastered the art of making filaments, you can even start a business of filament selling and making money out of it. As the market for 3D printing is growing, the need for filament is also increasing. This is also a great business option for those who do not want to get into 3D printing and designing tasks. ✔️ Reuse Filaments If you think that the leftover filaments are of no use, why not make it again with the help of this machine that you built all by yourself. So, reusing certain filaments is easier than others. Find which one you could rebuild and save more money. ✔️ Hone Skills Those who try themselves, learn more. You can learn a lot of things when trying to build this machine for making 3D printer filament. Even if it does not work, you still have a chance to research and get to the bottom of the problem. Who knows you can make something better than this? ✔️ Use Your Creativity Use more colors and make multi-color filaments with shades and desired diameter. Only by changing the nozzle with different hole diameter, you can achieve the change that you seek. As easy as it sounds. The Conclusion 3D printing has changed the way how people use to customize their products. The parts that were difficult to customize can be done quickly and easily with the help of 3D printers. However, the filament used in these printers isn’t very cheap. And, those selling it at a low price may not provide the quality you can look for. Hence, to make 3D printer filament at home gives you better chances for saving money and getting the quality you need. Once you have built the machine, all you need is to use it whenever you want to make 3D printer filament.
recyclebotsopen-source untuk membuat filamen WPC cetak 3-D yang homogen, dan mencetak dengan printer 3-D berbasis-FFF open source. Hasilnya menunjukkan ada peluang signifikan bagi WPC komposit berbasis limbah untuk digunakan sebagai filamen pencetakan 3-D. Tujuan penelitian ini adalah untuk
Introduction Build Your Own 3d Printer Filament Factory Filament ExtruderToo long, didn't read Make your own 3D printer filament ! Cheap and high quality at a decent speed of 150-190 IPM ! 4-5 meters per minuteUPDATE Now with wiring diagram !Long read 3D printers are cool and they finally start to drop in price. Kickstarter campaigns like the one from QB-UP or M3D are popping up and they are finally "affordable". And with affordable I mean affordable like 200 $ and not "affordable" like affordable. However, once you are a proud owner of a 3D printer you will soon realize that your wallet is far from being let alone. No ! You need plastic filament of course to print those super awesome coat hooks and wheel chocks. Since the price for these filaments tend to top the actual material costs, printing before mentioned life savers is kind of expensive and could become a problem to the development of the ever growing 3D printer community BUT FEAR NO MORE !! Some clever gents came along - Hugh Lyman with his Lyman Extruder may be mentioned here or the guys over at - and saved the day ! YAY. And there was much rejoicing ! They have built plastic extruders everyone can build or buy at a decent price. However if you are a fellow user the first thing that should come to your mind is "I can build this by myself...and cheaper...". Building at lower costs is the nature of DIY after all. And much more fun than putting together a premade kit, of course. Special greetings go out to Xabbax and his plain simple but super awesome Low Cost Filament Extruder !So how much money do I save when making my own filament ? Good question ! A lot ! Depending on the pellets you get you can make your filament starting at 1$/ long does it take to produce 1 kg of filament you may ask ?? Using the build I describe here...roughly 1 hour. for 1,75mm filament using ABS/PC pellets. So, let's say on a Saturday in your next workshop session you start at 10 AM and batten down the hatches at 5 PM you could make 4-5 kg of filament, saving between 125-150 $ leaving you with lots of filament for hundreds of thousands of eggcups and phone cases and other useless needful yeah what about the build cost ? Depending on shipping and local prices, I would guess around 130-150$. Next step List of MaterialsStep 1 Material List Except for the electronics everything listed here can be bought at your local hardware 1x Wiper Motor Ebay EU - 15€ / 5€ from the junkyard 1x Auger bitdiameter = 16mm ; length = 460mm 1x PID Temperatur Controller - DC 12V version Ebay 1x SSR-25DA Solid State Relay 3-32V DC / 24-380V AC / 25A Ebay 1x K-type thermocouple Ebay - like this one; does not need to be that shop just an example->!!! Sometimes the PID is bundled with an SSR and an K-Type Thermocouple !!!<- 1x Motor Controller 20A Ebay 1x Power Supply 12V, 240W+ Ebay 1x Heating band 200 Watt 25mmx30mm Ebay 2x Fans 80mm 12V 1x Fitting 3/4" US Inch UNC - 1/2" German Inch - 18cm long 1x Water tap extension - 3/4" UNC threads - 1/2" German Inch - 50mm long, 27mm diameter one core thread and one exterior thread 1x End cap 1/2" 1x Faucet-mounted filter - 1/2" diameter 3x Steel angle 1x Axial ball thrust bearing Ebay - Fitting exactly onto the auger bit's shaft. 2x 10mm threaded rod 1x Insulation PTFE tape Heat resistant tape 3x Rocker previously "rocket" switches 1x Wooden board 100cm x 10cm x 2cm Several screws and nuts 2x sockets 1 that fits on the auger bit and 1 that fits on the nuts of the motor shaft Wires two colors ToolsMultitool Dremel-like Saw Hammer DrillStep 2 Base Plate Take the wooden board and cut away two pieces each 15cm in length ~6". They will serve as a mount for the motor and for the barrel. Step 3 The Motor MountMount the wiper motor to the motor mount and place it somewhere at the end of the base plate. See the technical drawing for an the steel angles to attach it to the base plate. The motor just has a threaded shaft. For the coupling to fit onto the motor I took a hex-nut with 13mm outer diameter and put it on the shaft. When the shaft rotates and the coupling is attached, the nut would untwist. To fix this I drilled a hole in-between the attached nut and the motor shaft and put in a 2mm steel bolt. This prevents the nut from opening. See the last picture 4 The Barrel MountDrill two holes into the other piece of wood so the flanges can be attached left and right of the board. Drill another 1/2" hole for the auger mounting boards need their center opening to be aligned to each other so the auger / coupling / shaft-axis can rotate the flanges with two pieces of the 10mm threaded rod. The rods must be left long enough so they can be screwed to the auger "kickback protection". 10 cm is good enough. They can be cut to size later will get clear in the next 5 Auger Kickback ProtectionWhen the auger bit turns and hauls the pellets a lot of pressure builds up. In the worst case this could damage the worm drive inside the wiper motor. To counter that problem, we need a kickback protection. This is simply done by a sturdy steel angle and an axial ball thrust ball bearing withstand alot of force applied to works like that The auger pushed back due to its "backward" turning attitude. Because of its taper the auger's shaft pushes against the axial ballthrust bearing which itself pushes against the steel angle. The coupling between the auger and the motor should always have a little clearance. So that no force is applied to the motors place the steel angle with the inserted rods at a distance to the barrel mount so that the auger's shaft sticks out for about 3-4cm ~ pictures should explain it as well. Moreover I have made a short video that should illustrate it as well. The dimensions of the parts might differ from the ones you have access to. So exact measurement might not help you very much, but the pictures should give you an idea how it should be put 6 The Barrel and Auger BitBarrelSmooth out the ends and the seams of the pipe so the auger bit can rotate cutting an opening into the pipe screw it tight onto the flange and mark the upper area and remove the barrel again. Take your multitool and cut out the marked area at the end of the pipe where the pellets should fall in. Wind some PTFE tape around that end of the pipe. This should prevent the pipe from turning with the augers movement. Remember the motor is very powerful and if there is some friction between the auger and the pellets, the pipe easily turns another 4-5 mm even if it was fastened with a monkey wrench. The threads on the flange and fittings are not made for perfect 90° angles. So the fitting/barrel might stand in an oblique angle. To fix this take some washers and place them under the flang where necessary. Take a square piece of wood and drill a hole lengthways for the pipe to run through. Now drill another hole orthogonal to the "pipe channel" so that a bottle can fit tightly. Now just cut the block in half for easy dis/-assembly. Auger-bitThe auger might be too long so you need to cut off its tip with an angle grinder. The auger bit should reach up to the heater. See the pictures 7 The Auger-motor CouplingTake a 5cm 2 inch piece of a square steel that fits into the ends of the sockets about 12mm edge length. Put the coupling on the auger bit and attach the motor to the motor coupling should now fit nicely you could use a spark plug socket instead of the two sockets. But therefore the distance between the motor-mount and the auger/barrel-mount needs went with the above mentioned method because I did not have spark plug socket at hand but I will try this with the next 8 The NozzleNozzle diameterDepending on the material you process the diameter of the hole in the nozzle will vary and finding the right dimension is a process of trial and error. For ABS/PC blend pellets with a melting point between 240-280°C a hole perfomed well from my plateTake the faucet-mounted filter and cut it into a 1/2" diameter if needed. This will act as a breaker plate. What this breaker plates does is mix the molten plastic and retains dirty which should not be there of course and eventually small bubbles that could occur in the melting process. This helps smoothing the plastic pushing through the sure there are no chippings or strands ! You don't want to ruin your printers nozzle !Take a washer, place it inside the end cap and put the DIY breaker plate on 9 Band Heater and Temperatur Probe K-type ThermocoupleDrill a 2mm hole near the front of the water tap extender for the thermocouple to fit in. Strip the thermocouple wire to length. It should just be as long as the band heater on the tap extender. It should sit around the end of the take some PTFE tape and wind it around the thread of the tap extender. This prevents the molten plastic from squeezing through the the thermocouple with some heat resistant put on the nozzle from the previous take a 10cm long piece of aluminium tubing with a diameter of around 1cm and place it in front of the nozzle using some rigid wire. This gives the filament a nice curl when cooling. Thanks Xabbax for the wrap the insulation around the heater so that the nozzle is covered as 10 CoolingThe front of the nozzle and the motor needs some filament is still very hot and soft when it exits the nozzle. To prevent it from stretching too much from the affecting g-forces when falling down, cooling is very important. The more you cool the better you can control the diameter of the filament later the motor builds up some heat and the fan helps to keep it 11 ElectronicsNow that most of the mechanical parts are set and done it is time for installing the before, take a piece of wood for the front enclosure and arrange the 3 rocket switches, the PID controller and the motor controller's potentiometer and fix them with some hot powerConnect the power cord via a rocker/t switch to the power supply Ports L, N and Ground.PID temperature controllerConnect the PID temperature controller via rocker switches to the power State Relay & Band heaterConnect the 12V ports of Solid State Relay to the PID Port 6 and 8Connect port 1 of the SSR to the 220V EU /120V US port Port L of the power supply. Connect port 2 of the SSR to one of the band heater other free port of the band heater is connected to the N port of the power does the SSR do actually ??The band heater is a 220V part but the PID only runs on 12V. Therefore the SSR connects the 12V PID with the 220V heater. The PID powers the SSR on and off if needed. When it is on then 220V are connected to the band heater and it gets warm. If the relay is off, the band heaters isn't connected to 220V and ergo is powered down. The idea is to control a high power device Heater with a low power device PID.Motor controllerConnect the motor controller via a rocker switch to the power supply. Then connect the motor to the motor controller. Use the pinout for the 2nd speed setting of the motor. The pinouts differ from model to model and you first have to find out which pins are for which speed two fans are connected to the same ports as the motor is to the motor diagramI am not sure if I am allowed to post the wiring diagrams for license reasons so I will link to the respective Filastruder wiring diagram2 Filabot Wee wiring diagram scroll down3 Here is a link to the Sestos PID I 12 Extrusion Settings and Setting Up the PIDDifferent materials need different extrusion pure ABS a temperatur of 190°C is about requires less heat and ABS/PC blend needs higher temperatures like 260-270° Sestos PID is able to autotune to the desired controller setupTo enable the autotune function press "SET" for 3 will now see "HIAL" on the display. Now use the DOWN button until you see "Ctrl" and adjust it to "2". This is the number for the autotune function. Press "SET" again until you see the temperature readout again. Just after all the EP1-8 options. Set the desired temperature using the up and down buttons and wait until the display stops flashing ~10-15 minutes.Activate the motor and let the extruding begin. You have to play around with the speed of the my experience setting the potentiometer to half speed 270°C for ABS/PC performed very well.
HF0DuDu. cara membuat filamen 3d printer
